France is the most visited country in the world — around 90 million tourists per year — and the vast majority of them see Paris, maybe the Loire Valley, and the French Riviera. The rest of France is another country entirely. Medieval cities that have not been gentrified into boutique-hotel uniformity. Regions where the food is so specific to the landscape that you cannot find it anywhere else. Mountain villages that were built before Paris existed. These are the places that make France worth more than one trip.
1. Lyon — France’s Real Food Capital
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Lyonnais will tell you, without much modesty, that their city is the gastronomic capital of France. They are correct. The bouchon — a specifically Lyonnais type of small bistro serving traditional working-class food — is one of the great restaurant formats in Europe. Quenelles, andouillette, salade lyonnaise with a barely-cooked egg, tablier de sapeur — this is food that has not been adapted for tourist palates. The city itself is beautiful: two rivers, two hills, a UNESCO-listed Renaissance quarter, and the Roman theatre at Fourvière that still hosts summer concerts. Two hours from Paris by TGV.
2. Provence in June — Before the Lavender Crowds
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The lavender fields of the Valensole plateau peak in late June and July. By the time most tourists arrive in August, the best fields have already been harvested. Going in late June means the purple is at its most intense and the roads between Manosque and Valensole are not yet lined with tour buses. The villages of the Luberon — Gordes, Roussillon, Les Baux-de-Provence — are also more manageable before the school holiday crowds arrive. Stay in Apt or Forcalquier rather than the famous villages to cut costs and add authenticity.
3. The Dordogne Valley
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The Dordogne is medieval France at its most intact. The river valley has more castles per kilometre than almost anywhere in Europe — the English and French fought over this territory for a century and both sides built fortifications that are still standing. Sarlat-la-Canéda is the best-preserved medieval town in France; the Saturday market fills streets that have not changed since the 13th century. The cave paintings at Font-de-Gaume and Lascaux IV are the most significant prehistoric art in Europe. Rent a canoe and paddle the river between Beynac and La Roque-Gageac for the best view of the valley.
4. Alsace — France That Feels Like Germany
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Alsace has changed hands between France and Germany four times since 1870. The result is an architecture, cuisine, and culture that belongs entirely to neither country. Colmar’s old town — half-timbered houses, flower-lined canals, cobblestone streets — is one of the most photographed places in France. The Alsatian wine route runs 170 kilometres between Marlenheim and Thann through villages that produce Riesling, Gewurztraminer, and Pinot Gris. The choucroute garnie — sauerkraut with five different pork products — is the regional dish and it is excellent.
5. Mont Saint-Michel
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Mont Saint-Michel is one of the most visited sites in France and deserves every visitor it gets. The medieval abbey perched on a tidal island, accessible by causeway for most of the day and surrounded by sea during the highest tides, is genuinely extraordinary. Stay overnight to experience it after the day-trippers leave — the island has a handful of hotels and at night it empties to almost nothing. The bay at low tide, when locals cross the sand on foot guided by authorised guides, is one of the most otherworldly landscapes in Western Europe.
6. Corsica — The Island That Resists Tourism
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Corsica is politically French but culturally independent in a way that the island’s residents will tell you about at length. The interior is mountain wilderness — the GR20 hiking trail across the spine of the island is considered the hardest long-distance route in Europe. The beaches in the south at Palombaggia and Rondinara are consistently ranked among the best in the Mediterranean. The maquis — the dense scrubland of rosemary, lavender, and wild herbs — scents the whole island from spring through autumn. Napoleon was born here; the Corsicans are ambivalent about the association.
7. Bordeaux — The Wine City Done Right
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Bordeaux was comprehensively renovated in the early 2000s and is now one of the most beautiful cities in France. The 18th-century stone architecture along the Garonne is immaculate. La Cité du Vin is the world’s best wine museum — not a stuffy collection but an immersive experience that ends with a glass of wine overlooking the river. The Médoc wine route north of the city passes châteaux — Margaux, Pauillac, Saint-Estèphe — that are open to visitors by appointment. Two hours from Paris by TGV.
8. The Loire Valley Châteaux by Bicycle
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The Loire Valley has more than three hundred châteaux and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site for its concentration of Renaissance architecture. The Loire à Vélo cycling route runs 800 kilometres along the river and is the best way to see it — flat, well-signposted, passing directly in front of Chambord, Cheverny, Amboise, and Chenonceau. Cycling between châteaux takes the pressure off fitting everything into a car tour and forces you to notice the vineyards, the river light, and the villages between the famous stops.
9. Étretat — The Normandy Cliffs
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Étretat’s chalk cliffs — the Falaise d’Aval with its natural arch and needle — appear in Monet’s paintings and have been photographed from the clifftop path by every visitor since. The town below is modest and relatively undeveloped compared to what the views deserve. The cliff walk takes about an hour in each direction and is best in the golden hour before sunset when the chalk turns amber. Combine with a visit to the D-Day beaches further along the Normandy coast — Utah, Omaha, and the Pointe du Hoc — for one of the most historically significant stretches of coastline in Europe.
10. Carcassonne
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The medieval walled city of Carcassonne is the most complete fortified city in Europe. The double ring of walls, 52 towers, and the inner castle have survived largely intact since the 13th century. The city inside the walls is heavily touristic during the day — but stay the night and the narrow streets empty entirely after 9pm. The lower town across the river, the Bastide Saint-Louis, has the real restaurants and bars where locals eat. The Canal du Midi, which runs through the lower town, is the most beautiful canal in France.
Practical Information
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France’s TGV network makes it possible to reach Lyon, Bordeaux, and Marseille from Paris in under two hours. Driving is the best option for the Dordogne, Alsace, and Provence, where the most interesting places are between the main towns rather than in them. Corsica requires a flight from Paris or Marseille, or a ferry from Nice, Marseille, or Toulon. The French national rail pass (Eurail France Pass) is worth considering for trips covering multiple regions. French museums close on Mondays or Tuesdays — check before travelling to a specific site.
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Official sources
Check current conditions with France.fr, the official tourism site before you travel.
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